Vanuatu to New Caledonia 2016

By Art on (with 0 comments)


Distance (nm)
Average (kts)

After a brief stay in Vanuatu, we're off to New Caledonia. We've asked for permission to stop in the Loyalty Islands (half-way between Vanuatu and NC) for a few days and the powers-to-be in NC and France gave their blessing so we get a nice rest stop!

Our Vanuatu experience was really nice. The formalities of clearing in and out (thanks Kevin and Simon!) were painless and professional. Our anchorage at Lelepa Island for a few days gave us some of the nicest snorkeling we've had since Fiji. Calm anchorage (deep though!) along a pristine beach with miles of coral to explore with no one else around. We're looking forward to coming back next season to spend a lot of time here.

In the meantime, we're off to a new country, follow along!

Passage Position

Log Entries

by Art, Arrival at Noumea, New Caledonia

After a very nice passage (albeit motoring...) from our stop in Lifou for a few days we have arrived in the harbour of Noumea, New Caledonia. We couldn’t' find a place to anchor as there are so many boats there already and most of them anchored illegally in the channel. We moved over to the Bai de Citron (i.e Lemon Bay) and Andrea tendered over to the Port Mosel to deal with the Customs and Immigration formalities. All is good and we will rest and recuperate here for a few days. A friend of Andrea's, Giorgio, is coming from Italy to spend some time enjoying the Tropics and will be onboard to help with our passage from New Caledonia to Brisbane. It'll be a lot of fun to have him onboard and share some more adventure before we arrive in the Brisbane marina. In the meantime, as you can imagine, we sleep like zombies!

Oh... and 07-Oct is a special day onboard as it's Tea's birthday so much celebrating is ahead!

by Art, Lifou, New Caledonia

After a spectacular and exciting passage (read Tracy's prior entry!) we've arrived at anchor in front of the town of We. We (pun intended) have the permission of the French Customs and Immigration to spend two nights here before we arrive in Nouméa for official clearance. Tomorrow, the local biosecurity man comes onboard to make sure we are not bringing any prohibited items (like competing cheese from Italy!) to this France-dominated nation. So, we eat all the cheese we can tonight and tomorrow before he arrives! For now, we clean the boat and go for a swim before catching up on our sleep and enjoying a nice meal of other prohibited items!

by Tracy, between Vanuatu and New Caledonia

I love the sunrise at sea, perhaps even more than the sunsets, because they hold more promise. Our current passage is a brief one by FG standards, only 220 nautical miles, but it will be sailed on a single tack, and we've nearly covered it already. As I write, she makes way in eleven knots of breeze, but even with a reef in the main, we're doing almost nine knots boat speed. Conditions are regatta excellent, and have been since we lifted anchor in Port Vila.

The instruments tell me we are only twenty-eight miles from our destination in the Loyalty Islands, Lifou. It's exciting for all of us as none of us have ever been there. But none of us had ever visited Vanuatu before either, and yeah, this is the cool part folks, a new beginning on a regular basis.

A rustling, crinkling sound is interrupting my concentration, I look up from the iPad and see that it's Art having a bit of breky. He's standing next to me on the aft deck, and he's torn into a bag of cheese twisties. This is after Tea already made him eggs, but hey, sailing oceans makes you hungry, and on passage, we all tend to Hoover up everything within easy reach.

We both pulled the dawn watch. My head is still groggy after the previous one, it's like a hangover, but without the alcohol. My last shift was 10 until 2am. Yes, we're short handed, but that's another story, and I'm not going there, but anyway, it's a stunning day in paradise, we are on a fabulous calm ocean, sailing beautifully aboard an amazing ship, so no bitching allowed.

Andrea, the samurai fisherman, hooked into a monster yesterday. We're talking about a fish of Hemingway-like proportions. It grabbed the hook like a thief grabs a loose purse in a crowd and ran like hell. It ran so hard that all we could do was watch as six hundred meters of line spun away until the reel was flat empty. All four of us were on deck by that time, but there was nothing anyone could do except roll away the genoa, head up into the wind, and try to ease the pressure on the line.

Once the line ran out, the only thing left holding the fish was the knot tied around the spool. We were all certain it would snap off and that would be, quite literally, the end, but it wasn't. Andrea cautiously lifted the rod from its holder and cranked in a few turns, then a few more, and over the course of the next hour and a half, he managed to reel in over five hundred meters of line. The fight was epic, the line stretched and twanged like a guitar string, and the fish? He was awesome, there's absolutely no doubt in this, no exaggeration applied, this was a massive critter.

This fish had gulped our sparkly squid lure and plummeted straight down like a rock, six hundred meters worth of down, and for Andrea, it felt like he'd hooked onto a passing submarine. He battled hard, his hands were red, his arms ached, but whatever this thing was- a massive tuna? Hmmm....maybe. But whatever this thing was, it was pure bastard. Andrea slugged it out through a full slate of rounds with Hemingway's monster until the final bell. He'd get a hundred meters worth of line put away, only to be forced to watch, as this thing would suddenly start running again, and take it all back.

The sun was gone by this time, but none of us were giving up. Andrea fought until he had his fish within thirty meters of the transom, and we were prepared. Art had the gaff ready, we had Andrea's long knife out- his samurai sword- we had the speargun, a second knife just in case, we even had a club. So damn straight, we were ready to take this thing down, we were ready for blood, we were gonna whack' em, part him out, and stuff as much of him as we could into the freezer- we were all tasting the sushi!

Tea was grinning and vibrating with excitement- we all were... And then came the judges decision, and they gave the points to the bastard fish! No!!! You have got to be jerking my chain man! No way! So with that announcement, the crowd booed the judges, then threw their empty beer bottles, they had to call in security, while the fish just spits the hook back in Andrea's face like the bastard that he is. So we're all left standing there while this guy leaves the ring in triumph, he heads off with his posse to hit the clubs and celebrate, and yeah, it was insulting.

Art just spotted the first of the Loyalty Islands, so guess who buys the first round once we get there? Ha ha, yep, that's how it works out here folks. The wind has dropped off to just nine knots, but we're still under sail because, why not? It's a fabulous day, on a beautiful South Pacific morning, and so of course- we're Feelin' Good!!!

Our location is 19°50.011′S 167°25.070′E. Currently the mainsail is reef1 and the genoa is out. The sky is clear, we have good visibility and the sea state is slight. Wind is 13.8 kts from 96°T, the air temperature is 22°C while the sea temperature is 24°C. Our SOG is 10.2 kts with our COG 189°T.

by Art, Port Vila, Vanuatu

We've cleared customs and immigration in Vanuatu for departure and will rest at anchor for the night before departing tomorrow for Lifou in the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia. It's about 200nm away and will take us less than 24 hours. As usual, we will do 4 hours watches and hope to have some wind to enjoy sailing en-route. The forecast looks promising, fingers crossed!

"We look forward to your comments on this Passage!"

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